Side Dishes 26: Pickled Tofu

Pickled tofu from the General’s Temple1 in Suzhou is very good, dark coloured, and savoury. There are two types: dried and moist. There is also the kind with shrimp that is savoury in taste but somewhat unappetizing due to its fishy smell. The white pickled tofu of Guangxi is the very best. Treasurer Wang’s household also makes a good pickled tofu.

乳腐2
乳腐,以蘇州溫將軍廟前者為佳,黑色而味鮮。有乾、濕二種,有蝦子腐亦鮮,微嫌腥耳。廣西白乳腐最佳。王庫官家製亦妙。

Note:
1 “General’s Temple” is a literal translation, but the temple referred here is one built to venerate General Guan Yu  (220CE).
2 Literally meaning “dairy tofu”, I have been enamoured by the savoury and creamy taste/texture/aftertaste of this condiment ever since I’ve tasted this as a child. Some refer to pickled tofu as “tofu cheese”, and while this is a good way to begin understanding what it is, I would say it’s more than than just “cheese” (in the sense that fermented cheeses is used in Western cuisines). It is certainly orthogonal in its culinary effect. When eaten with rice it perfumes, and makes each grains utterly delectable. Added to vegetable dishes, it gives them a different dimension and robustness in flavour altogether. It is incredible stuff and not to underestimated.

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